Pad stitching with horsehair cloth interfacing
This old-fashioned technique is still very suitable for jackets, blazers, and coats
When pad stitching with horsehair cloth, you use a sew-in haircloth interfacing
There are different types available, with horsehair or with wool in it. The woollen haircloth interlinings are more supple and have a completely different feel than the types with actual horsehair in them
Woollen haircloth interlining supple is a real ladies' haircloth, the firmer version can be used well in your coat or in a men's blazer. In horsehair cloth interfacing, you put the thinner types in ladies' clothing and men's clothing. The thicker, firmer horsehair cloth plastron is more of a men's interfacing
And order your horsehair tape with your interfacing, you use it on the folding line of the lapel...
Pocketing and interfacing interfacing for the collar
The collar of a coat, jacket or blazer is often made by a real tailor with collar linen and collar felt. You cut the under collar from the collar felt and collar linen is in the collar to make it firmer and keep it in shape. When you use collar linen, you do not use horse hair cloth in your collar
Pocketing or pocket lining gives your pockets a longer lifespan. Your pockets have to endure a lot with all those wallets, keys, and phones...
That's why there is pocketing or pocket lining on the market to make your pocket from a sturdy yet thin material
We have chosen pocketing or pocket lining with a herringbone pattern. Pocketing in plain weave is also available on request, but the one with herringbone gives your garment that little bit extra
Tips for choosing your interlining for coats and horsehair cloth
- Look at your fabric, does it need a lot of extra support of not
- for extra support you choose a woven or thicker interlining like the Natural fusible woven interfacing polyquick or the supple viscose fusible interlining
- for less support you choose a thinner vilene interlining like G405 or H410
- Do you use volume fleece or fiberfill your vilene can be suppler because the volume fleece adds a little support
- Do a test: fuse the vilene interlining to your fabric or pad stitch a piece when you use horse hair cloth - now you can see what the fabric and interfacing do together
- Remember you do not have to limit yourself to one interlining, you could easily use vilene H410 on your back piece and iron supple viscose fusible interlining onto your front piece for example
- And there are vilene interfacing tapes for easy reinforcement of hems and seams - you can even iron it onto your interlining if your fabric or pattern needs it
Below you will find other pages on interlining, read on or ask Annette for a personal advice. The contact info is in the footer...
Other pages on interlining
Vilene interlining choosing aid
Vilene interlining for clothing - from blouse fleece to coat-facing
Vilene tapes for hems, seams, armholes etc. to iron on
Creative vilene interlining for bags, embroidery, fiberfill or collar
Interlining like horsehair, fuse fleece, bridal laminate etc.
Which kind of interlining do I need?
